In the Hills of Donegal – enchanting County becoming ‘Hollywood of Ireland’
Article by Kieran Cunningham @ The Irish Daily Star.
It may not have California weather but south-west Donegal can make a strong claim to be the Hollywood of Ireland.
But what was missing for a long time was quality accommodation for tourists – something that has now been addressed with the opening last month of a spectacular new boutique accommodation provider.
Carrick Gate has a prime spot in the village of the same name, which is at the eastern end of the Glencolmcille parish, with Sliabh Liag as a spectacular backdrop.
Carrick Gate with Sliabh Liag in the background (Image: Carrick Gate)
Hollywood Heavy Hitters loving Donegal
Matthew Broderick and Sarah Jessica Parker have a holiday home in Kilcar, visit a couple of times a year, and can be spotted browsing the aisles in Supervalu in Killybegs. Paul Mescal and Emily Watson filmed God’s Creatures in Glencolmcille two years ago, and the former’s famous O’Neill’s shorts were on display during his regular jogs around the area.
One of Netflix’s recent hits is In the Land of Saints and Sinners – and it was filmed in Glencolmcille and Kilcar. Liam Neeson, Ciarán Hinds, Kerry Condon, Niamh Cusack, Colm Meaney and Jack Gleeson – who memorably played Joffrey in Game of Thrones – are among a stellar cast.
They threw themselves into Donegal life, supping pints in the local pubs, taking boat trips and laughing and joking with fans.
Neeson has since sung the praises of Glencolmcille on American TV, something that Mescal did before him in an interview in Irish on TG4. That the spectacular scenery of this region attracts filmmakers is nothing new.
In the early 1990’s, The Railway Station Man was filmed here – with Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie reuniting for the first time since Don’t Look Now – as was BBC drama Murder in Eden.
The celeb spotting goes into the sporting arena too. Cousins Séamus Coleman, the Ireland football captain, and Dessie Farrell, the Dublin GAA manager, both have holiday homes here.
King room at Carrick Gate (Image: Carrick Gate)
New quality accommodation along the Wild Atlantic Way
Carrick Gate is the brainchild of Byrne siblings Frances, Michael and Hugh – who have excelled in businesses both in Ireland and the UK, and that expertise shows.
It hadn’t even been open a week when I stayed there in late April but you’d never have known it. There were no signs of any teething troubles and the staff, led by manager Jessica Byrne, couldn’t have been more helpful and obliging.
There are 10 bedrooms and, in a nice touch, all are named after local townlands – Drim, Teelin, Malin and so on.
In the day job covering sport, I’ve travelled the globe since joining this newspaper in 1998. So that brings with it a fair idea of what you want from a hotel, boutique or otherwise.
It’s not always about location, location, location either. There was one hotel that had a prime spot beside Times Square but, unfortunately, it was full of rooms that were also prime spots for cockroach breeding.
There have been plenty of fine hotels too, big and small, and I’d genuinely rate Carrick Gate up there with the best I’ve experienced.
During renovations or revamps, you often find corners are cut that quickly become noticeable. Not here, the building has been finished to a high standard and clearly a lot of thought has gone into everything from the vertical radiators to the window blinds to the artwork on the walls to the bathroom fittings.
A spectacular sunset at Sliabh Liag (Image: Carrick Gate)
Exploring all the area has to offer
It’s an ideal place to explore the area and, believe me, there’s plenty to explore. Sliabh Liag, the highest sheer sea cliffs in Europe at 1972 feet – nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, are just a couple of miles away down the Teelin Road and they’re one of the biggest attractions on the entire Wild Atlantic Way.
I’d recommend a couple of pit stops along the way. Brew In Thru is one of the best of the cast of thousands of coffee trucks you’ll find around the country at various tourist stops.
And The Rusty Mackerel – a favoured spot of SJP – is famed for its food and traditional music. Last year, it won the award for best Gastro pub in Ireland. No visit to this area is complete without taking to the water with Sliabh Liag Boat Tours, and there is no better guide than owner Paddy ‘Murdoch’ Byrne, the saltiest of salty sea dogs.
In the village of Carrick itself, there are two pubs worth a visit. Hegarty’s Slieve League Lodge is a must for GAA fans, in particular. You’d pass a pleasant hour looking at the photographs on the walls – something that former Ireland manager Stephen Kenny did last summer. Like Evelyn’s Central Bar across the road – a joint that is often jumping – there is regular live music and the recent addition of Italian chef Davide Tullio is a big plus.
You are in the hills of Donegal so hill walking is recommended, as is cycling. If the hills prove too steep, then make it easier for yourself by renting an electric bike from Ireland by Bike across the bridge from Carrick Gate.
The abandoned Village of Port (Image: Carrick Gate)
Glencolmcille – Tradition and the Irish Language
Of course, you are just on the edge of the Glencolmcille parish so it’s worth heading six miles in the road and, from there, you can explore everything from the famed Folk Village Museum to the sublime beaches to Glen Head with its Martello Tower from the Napoleonic wars.
Glencolmcille has also become a magnet for Irish language learners with Oideas Gael one of the most successful schools for adults in the country. Just ask former President Mary McAleese, former Taoiseach Leo Varadkar, renowned poet Paul Muldoon and iconic singer Damien Dempsey. They all went to Oideas Gael for classes in recent years.
A trek to Port, a deserted village in the mountains, is recommended. Famed Welsh poet Dylan Thomas lived nearby in Glenlough for a spell in the 1930s.
After all that, you’ll want some refreshment. An Chistin, the Lace House and the John Eoiníns Bar are all good dining options in Glencolmcille.
Dining area in Carrick Gate (Image: Carrick Gate)
Accommodation at the Gateway to Sliabh Liag
Carrick Gate will be waiting for you and, when you return, it will feel like a home from home.
With the fresh sea air in this area, you’ll sleep like a baby. Breakfast is continental buffet style – and of high quality, like everything about Carrick Gate.
Room prices start at €140 per night, and family rooms at a very reasonable rate are available.
Full details can be found on carrickgate.com or by calling +353 86 8112292.
Enjoying Kieran’s article at breakfast (Image: Carrick Gate)
Originally published online by Irish Star.com and Irish Mirror.ie on 18-05-2024
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